
Some days out are pleasant. Others leave you grinning for a week. Our afternoon at the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust’s elephant orphanage in Nairobi, Kenya was firmly the second kind.
On a Sunday afternoon in late October, a group of my colleagues and our families piled into the elephant nursery on the edge of Nairobi National Park for a 3pm visit. For those of us in Nairobi’s expat community, it was the kind of weekend outing that reminds you why you love living here, and it’s easily one of the best things to do in Nairobi with kids.
Here come the babies: bottle-feeding the orphaned elephants
We heard them before we saw them. Then, out of the bush, came a stampede of little elephants, ears flapping and trunks swinging, running flat out toward their keepers.
If you’ve never seen a baby elephant run, it’s hard to describe. Picture a toddler who has just spotted the ice cream van, then make that toddler weigh a few hundred kilos. There was a collective “awww” from our whole group, adults included.
The keepers were waiting with giant bottles of milk, and the calves knew exactly where to go. Some grabbed the bottle with their trunks and tipped their heads back. Others gulped so eagerly that milk ran down their chins. In a matter of seconds the bottles were empty, and the calves were looking around hopefully for seconds.
What struck me most was the bond. These orphaned baby elephants lost their mothers, and the keepers have stepped into that role. You could see the trust in the way the babies leaned into them.
A Sesame Street celebrity with an attitude
The nursery has a famous resident right now. Earlier this month, PBS aired Sesame Street and the Great Elephant Adventure, in which Elmo, Abby Cadabby and Nina travel to the Sheldrick nursery to meet an orphaned elephant they had adopted. So, naturally, we were hoping for a close-up with the star.
The star had other plans. Fame has clearly gone to that little head: the keepers told us the youngster was being naughty that day, and they kept a careful distance between our group and the mischief. We got a good look from afar, which, honestly, only made the kids love the little troublemaker more.
It was a good reminder that these are wild animals with big personalities, not props. The keepers know each one intimately, and their call was the right one.
Splash zone: the elephant mud bath
After the milk came the mud. One of the calves wandered over to the mud pool, dipped his trunk in, and calmly sprayed a thick coat of mud across his back. Sunscreen and bug spray, elephant style – spraying a good chunk of our group. There were shrieks, then laughter, then a lot of people inspecting their shirts. The kids thought it was the best thing that had ever happened. A few of the parents were slightly less sure, but everyone was smiling.
Tip for future visitors: don’t wear your nicest whites, and if you’re standing near the mud pool, consider it a splash zone.

Not just elephants: a baby black rhino and his zebra friend
Just when we thought the afternoon couldn’t get any better, the keepers introduced us to two more orphans: a baby zebra and a baby black rhino. The pair are inseparable. Tytan, the young rhino, was orphaned as a calf, and Notty, the zebra, has made himself Tytan’s shadow, trotting along wherever his friend goes. A stripy best friend for a rhino is not something you expect to see, and it melted every heart in the group.
Black rhinos are critically endangered, so seeing a calf this young up close felt like a privilege. Like the elephants, Tytan is being raised to one day return to the wild in the surrounding national park.

Meeting Maxwell, the blind black rhino
Then we walked over to meet the nursery’s elder statesman: Maxwell, a black rhino who has been blind since birth. Keepers found him alone in Nairobi National Park as a yearling back in 2007. Because he could never survive in the wild, the Trust has given him a forever home, and he’s now about 20 years old.
Maxwell can’t see you, but he certainly knows you’re there. He is calm, curious and surprisingly gentle for an animal built like a tank. The keepers call him the nursery’s patriarch, and he has a reputation for befriending the orphaned elephants and the warthogs that wander into his enclosure for breakfast.
After the chaos of the mud bath, those quiet minutes with Maxwell were a lovely way to slow down. It was a reminder that the Trust’s care doesn’t end when an animal can’t be released.

How to visit the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage
The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust has been rescuing orphaned elephants, rhinos and other wildlife across Kenya since 1977. The Nairobi Nursery, inside Nairobi National Park, is where most rescued calves begin their journey. Nursery-age orphans are fed milk every three hours, and the long-term goal is always to return them to the wild.
If you’re planning a visit:
- Book ahead. Entry is by advance booking only; you can’t just turn up.
- Pick your slot. The public visiting hour runs daily from 11am to noon (closed 25 December). Tour operators also arrange private afternoon visits around 3pm, which is what our group did.
- Budget for park fees. Kenya Wildlife Service now requires all nursery visitors to pay Nairobi National Park entry fees, on top of the Trust’s entry donation. Expats with Kenyan residency usually qualify for lower resident park rates, so bring your alien ID card.
- Dress for mud. See above.
- Adopt an elephant. You can foster an orphan online, and foster parents can book a special evening visit to see their elephant come home for the night.
Sources: SWT Nursery Visiting, SWT FAQs, SWT field notes, Jan 2024, Sesame Workshop, SWT on Maxwell, Tytan and Notty
Why it stays with you
It’s an hour of pure joy, but underneath it is a serious story about loss, care and the patient work of giving these calves a second chance at a wild life. We went for the cute baby elephants. We left with mud on our clothes and a lot more respect for the people who raise them.
Whether you’re planning a Kenya safari, settling into expat life in Nairobi, or just have a free weekend, put the Sheldrick elephant orphanage on your list. Just leave the white shirt at home.


















































































